CASE STUDY
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BEAUTY / FRAGRANCE
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GLOBAL (NDA)
Breaking the Glass:
Global Fragrance House (NDA)
A case I can’t fully name, but you’ve seen them: if you’ve ever walked into a national beauty
retailer or a premium fragrance section — online or offline — you’ve seen this group on the shelves.
This is how we rebuilt their position in mass and masstige fragrances by fixing preference, loyalty,
and the language of scent under NDA.
01 // THE QUESTION
“Where Do We Actually Win and Lose?”
The client is a major global fragrance manufacturer with a portfolio spread across mass,
masstige and selective channels. Because of contractual obligations I can’t reveal the name,
but it’s the kind of portfolio most people instinctively associate with
“this must be one of the big groups I see everywhere”.
Their question was not tactical. It wasn’t “what campaign should we run next?”.
It was a structural question:
“Across the whole customer journey — where exactly do we win, where do we leak,
and how do we grow share without simply spending more?”
"This wasn’t a media brief. This was an X-ray request: show us the real map, with us on it."
At Publicis, I led the workstream that pulled the category apart into stages, signals
and systems: national beauty chains, multi-brand online platforms, search, social, TV,
digital video, loyalty ecosystems and review surfaces.
02 // THE LEAKS
Awareness Was Fine. Preference Was Not.
When we plotted the full journey, the result was almost uncomfortable in its clarity.
Awareness was not the problem. The portfolio was visible everywhere that mattered:
on shelves, in hero placements, in advertising.
The leaks happened later — at:
• Preference — the moment someone stands in front of a fragrance wall
or scrolls a digital grid and has to choose one bottle;
• Loyalty — the moment it’s time to refill or switch, and habits are either
reinforced or broken by someone else’s promotion.
FIG 1.0 // JOURNEY LEAK RAIL
Awareness
Stable
Preference
Leakage
Loyalty
Leakage
Awareness Layer
Multi-channel visibility, shelf presence and media reach were already at
competitive levels. Spending more here produced diminishing returns.
Preference Layer
At point-of-choice, other brands were more distinctive and better encoded
emotionally, so the portfolio underperformed its own awareness.
Loyalty Layer
Refill and re-purchase cycles were weakly engineered; loyalty systems were treated
as background, not as a repeat engine.
In plain language: the group paid to enter the conversation, but didn’t fully
engineer what happens from “I know this brand” to “I choose this brand again and again”.
03 // THE LANGUAGE OF SCENT
Teaching Fragrances to Speak Digital
Most fragrance content behaves as if dropping fruits and flowers next to a bottle is enough.
It isn’t. That’s decoration, not communication. It doesn’t transmit the scent, it fills the
frame.
I designed a sensory content framework — a way to estimate and benchmark
how well visuals and copy actually make you feel the fragrance through a screen.
FIG 2.0 // SENSORY CONTENT 2×2
Generic Noise
Pretty visuals, no real sense of scent. Could belong to almost any brand in the
category.
Ownable but Vague
Recognizable brand codes with weak translation of notes, mood or wearing moments.
Clear but Anonymous
Good sensory cues (you roughly feel the scent), but assets are interchangeable
across competitors.
Sensory Anchor Zone
Assets that both carry the scent and clearly belong to this portfolio.
This is where we pushed the client’s future creative platform.
We then benchmarked the client’s assets against the full competitive field in mass and masstige,
and produced a ranked gap-map: where the portfolio needed to evolve to win preference, not just
share impressions.
04 // SYSTEMS: LOYALTY & REPEAT
Using Retail Ecosystems as an Engine, Not a Backdrop
The second blind spot was structural. Large beauty ecosystems — national chains, multi-brand
platforms, subscription boxes — all run their own loyalty universes: tiers, points, personalized
offers, events, early access mechanics.
Most brands treat these systems as a backdrop: “we’re listed, we’re in the catalog, we appear
in rotation sometimes”. A small set of competitors treat them as a separate battleground and,
predictably, dominate repeat purchases.
We unpacked how these ecosystems actually work for fragrances and turned them into a loop,
not a random sequence.
FIG 3.0 // LOYALTY LOOP
Discovery Event
Program Trigger
Refill Moment
Personalized Nudge
Engineered Fragrance Habit
From One-Off Promo to Loop
Instead of thinking in isolated promotions, we defined a repeat pattern:
how someone discovers a fragrance, how the ecosystem “remembers” that,
and how to bring them back exactly at refill time.
What Changed for the Client
Loyalty programs stopped being a black box owned “by the retailer”.
They became a controllable environment: with specific triggers, cycles and
expectations for repeat behavior.
For the client this translated into concrete playbooks:
how to participate, how often, with which offers, and what success should actually look like
beyond “we ran a promo”.
05 // REPUTATION AS HORIZON
Seeing Reviews as a Landscape, Not as Stars
In fragrances, reviews are not just a vanity metric. They are the quiet, accumulated argument
that either confirms “buy” or quietly redirects a shopper elsewhere.
Instead of counting stars, I built a reputation horizon across key
environments:
how dense, how recent, how specific and how aligned with the intended story each brand really
is.
FIG 4.0 // REPUTATION STRIPS
Volume
Solid count of reviews, but below top competitors in several high-intent
environments.
Freshness
Too many “old” reviews: good ratings, but weak signal that the fragrance is still a
live choice.
Specificity
When people did write, they wrote with detail: notes, longevity, projection —
a strong base to build on.
For each major environment we defined the mechanics: when to ask, how to ask, what kind of
post-purchase touch nudges people to leave a credible, specific review instead of a generic
star.
What Was Installed
Journey X-ray
Sensory Framework
Loyalty Loop Design
Reputation Horizon
The brand moved from “we’re visible, but not sure why we lose” to a clear,
instrument-level view of where share is leaking, how scent is (or isn’t) carried
through content, and what levers exist inside modern beauty ecosystems.
Strategic Shift
From Media-First
To Preference-First
To Loyalty-Conscious
Instead of simply increasing spend or chasing reach, the client now orients decisions
around engineered preference and repeat — with a shared language for creative, trade
and CRM teams.
STREAM: PREFERENCE
Point-of-Choice Strength
Sharper, more sensory-accurate content and clearer competitive benchmarks
improved the portfolio’s ability to be chosen at the shelf and in digital grids,
not just noticed.
STREAM: LOYALTY
Ecosystem Mechanics
Loyalty programs and repeat triggers stopped being a black box and became a set
of levers the brand could deliberately pull to protect and grow existing users.
STREAM: REPUTATION
Review Profiles
The review landscape became denser, more recent and more specific, strengthening
the “silent argument” for the portfolio at high-intent decision moments.